Swedish version


Step by step tying sequence
on half-inch tube of "Long range" type
By Jurij Shumakov

Page 1.

  I have been asked many times to write about tying on short half-inch tubes. What I found is that it is almost impossible to describe the tying sequence correctly. I therefore decided to take a few pictures, so any tier can repeat the sequence. It is always better to see once, rather to read ten times or to hear a hundred times. J

 (Shonguj Fly has been taken as an example, because it is one of the most complicated flies I tie. For simpler patterns you just pick up the steps you need.)

  Before you start to tie the fly you must prepare tube components for the tying.

  1. There is the option of what kind of tube holder to use. Some tiers use firmly made tube tools, some use a blind hook. I prefer just a simple sewing needle. A set of needles with different diameters and with a long eye covers all my needs. The cross section of the needle's eye is square. When you set the inner plastic tubing on needle up to eye it will be fixed on square part of needle, preventing rotation of the tube under tying procedure. You should remember that even hard plastic tubes change in diameter during tying, so if you choose a needle, which goes quite tight into the plastic tubing, you may face a situation when it will be difficult to remove needle from inner plastic tubing after tying is completed.

Step 1.

  2. You need to make a rim, which will hold the metal body tube from behind. Set a piece of plastic inner tubing of about 2-2.5 cm in length on suitable needle, but not up to its eye. Metal of needle prevents plastic from melting too quickly and burning. At the same time, the initial inner diameter remains unchanged.

Step 2.

  3. Set the metal body over the plastic tubing, leaving about 1.5-2 mm of plastic tubing sticking out of metal body. Metal body and needle prevent melted plastic from moving forward too quickly and helps to form perfect rim.

Step 3.

  4. Regulate lighter's flame to minimal level. When you melt, keep plastic in the lowest part of flame.

Step 4.

  5. Hold set of tubes firmly assembled in your fingers while building rim. Let the melted plastic cool down without changing the position.

Step 5.

  6. The tube is now ready for tying. For those who would like to add some extra attractiveness to a future fly, I recommend to paint the grooves of the metal body with with colour varnish. For this purpose you can use any quick drying varnish. For the past three years, I have mostly used the following colours: orange glow and yellow glow varnish of the American Plasti-Kote from "Mister mini-color" series; Veniard's black and red tying varnish; special fishing varnish in fluor orange, Green Highlander fluor and pink fluor from Russian firm "Kabota". This varnish is silicone based. I usually adjust the colour of grooves to wing colour or to common image of my fly.

  7. If you decide to paint grooves, leave the assembled set of tubes on the needle after forming the rim. Prepare any kind of napkin, or a piece of double layered toilette paper. Quality is the key. J In fact, I am quite serious. You should avoid the use of too soft or too hard paper, because in the first case, soft paper will quickly absorb varnish, even from grooves, and in the second case, it will not absorb excess varnish.

Step 7.

  8. Use another needle to take a drop of varnish and apply it on the grooves. The varnish will quickly penetrate inside of grooves by capillary effect.

Step 8.

  9. Quickly, but accurately, remove excess of varnish with paper. Original Long Range tubes have nicely machined and very smooth surface, so it is not difficult to remove varnish traces from metal body.

Step 9.

Step 9b.

  10. Leave the painted tube in vertical position until it dries.

Step 10.

Article continues on page 2

Text and photo by Jurij Shumakov 2005


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